Why is 9ct gold so important in England?
In Italy, when discussing vintage jewelry, attention often falls on the gold carat: 18 or 14 karat are perceived as valuable, while 9 karat is viewed with suspicion, even though our historic jewels, such as those from the Bourbon period, were made of 8 or 12 karat gold.
Even in British tradition, 9 carat gold has a rich history and a value that goes far beyond the simple percentage of pure gold.
Historical origins
The official introduction of the 9ct title dates back to 1854, when the British government expanded the range of alloys recognised for the production of jewellery although it had already been used in Georgian jewellery.
Since then, 9ct has become a staple of English jewellery, largely due to its perfect balance of durability, affordability and beauty.
Technical features
A 9ct gold jewel contains 37.5% pure gold and 62.5% alloys such as copper, silver and zinc.
This composition guarantees:
• Greater hardness than higher titles
• Perfect hold of the set stones
• Long-lasting even with daily use
This is also why many Victorian and Edwardian 9ct jewels have reached us in splendid condition.
Aesthetics and charm
Visually, 9ct gold offers a warmer, more delicate tone than 18ct. This characteristic makes it a popular choice in English vintage styles, lending a discreet yet elegant allure to necklaces, brooches, rings, and bracelets.
A Royal Curiosity:
Kate Middleton and the 9ct gold necklace
It's not just a matter of historical tradition: even today, 9-karat gold finds its way into the jewels worn by British royals.
The Princess of Wales, Kate Middleton, owns a 9ct yellow gold necklace by Daniella Draper, embellished with three pendants with the initials of her children:
• G for George
• C for Charlotte
• L for Louis
A clear example of how, even today, this alloy is chosen not for the quantity of gold, but for its meaning, design and intrinsic beauty.
Another area where 9ct has found space is that of luxury watches: the famous Tudor Royal , produced by Rolex , presented women's versions with 9ct gold cases — an elegant combination of refined design and a resistant alloy.
In conclusion…
British 9-carat gold is an alloy that has made the history of English jewellery, accompanying generations and even reaching the neck of the Princess of Wales.
Because after all, those who love vintage jewelry don't collect bullion... but stories, emotions, and small masterpieces of beauty.
As antique dealers, we will never be seekers of bullion, but hunters of beauty.
And this is why a vintage 9ct gold jewel has the same allure for us as an ancient novel: it's not the weight of the paper that matters, but the story it tells.